Last month I was introduced to Alex London’s work with surprised pleasure via the fall 2011 collection, Kagami. The clothing made it clear that this is not your average up-and-coming designer and gave me an obvious hint that I should find out more. Luckily, Alex agreed to sit down with me and tell me more about how Alex London Design came to be.

It turns out Alex is not very old, early twenties at most, however this designer and the body of work generated by this complex mind are wise beyond their years. Alex got quite an early start creating clothing, “My grandma would give me fabric and I would drape at age 4. I kind of just figured it out,” the designer explains. When looking at Kagamiand all of its drape work it is clear that this early practice allowed Alex to express a raw talent. Along with the material help from Grandma, Alex’s voracity and fervor led to design classes at the Fashion Institute of Technology’s early college program and then to work along side another designer. A natural eye for beauty and inherent ability left Alex leaps and bounds ahead of others the same age and after a short time at college at Parsons Alex left to start the couture label Alex London Design.

During our talk Alex and best friend/muse, for Alex London Design, Lyse explained the story behind Kagami to me. The inspiration for the collection is two-fold. First, Alex unashamedly tells me that in the past there was a period of depression for the designer. Alex was helped out of this dark place by a friend who gave the designer a “spiritual smack on the hand.” However, when this same friend was nearing the same dark place Alex saw the opportunity return the favor by mirroring the friend’s inspiring actions; the word “kagami” is the Japanese word for mirror. The journey taken by Alex inspired this collection, which also is meant to send an inspiring message to the uplifting friend. The journey is reflected as the color palette changes; it begins with crimson reds and blacks and eventually lightens to bright, angelic ivories. The metal structures the designer accessorizes the garments with and the braided, rope-like accents call to mind the state of being bound or tied to a place or certain mentality as well.

The second source of inspiration for Kagami comes from the award winning children’s book by David Almond entitled Skellig. The story involves a young boy who finds an old man with withering angel wings in his garage. The boy, Michael, and his friend Mina befriend with the old man and the three have a magical friendship. In the end a visit by the old man to Michael’s premature baby sister keeps her from death, leaving Michael’s family truly happy. In Kagami Alex uses the idea of wings by creating wire and feather structures that grow out of the garments at the shoulder blade and around the neck. These elements create a strong, dramatic statement, yet one that is eerily placid and otherworldly. The ending of the Skellig reiterates the theme of positive energy and love triumphing over negativity. After learning about the birth Kagami it makes sense to hear that the late Alexander McQueen is Alex’s top role model. Both have the talent and passion as well as the sense of how to combine beauty with slightly off putting, nearly disturbing elements to create true, unseen fashion.

The philosophy behind Alex London Design is, “to make something beautiful, that isn’t necessarily comfortable, but is so amazing you’d bleed for it.” Alex wants to go beyond designing beautiful clothes and reach people on a spiritual level. The one goal of the designer is to celebrate the unconventional and to be able to find beauty everywhere. Alex explains this is how Lyse-who also is the label’s signature model and makeup artist-became the designer’s muse. Lyse is very tall and thin, as models are, however her protrusive bone structure and untraditional look give Lyse something very unique and inspiring to Alex. This idea of striving for unconventional aesthetic is not usually the goal in mainstream fashion, which is heavily trend driven. For the designer fashion is unconventional beauty as well as “having that energy that makes people want to be around you, like a peacock.” Alex London also hopes to create and appreciates clothing that can be placed in any time period and still seem innovative, like a classic Chanel suit.

The designer I met is a great combination of many different elements, a very complex molecular structure. This designer is open emotionally and honest, someone who has been to darker places in life, but now is determined to remain on the side of the positive. This seeing-the-light sort of experience has molded a person with limitless creativity and clear inner strength without overpowering a gentle, loveableness that hugs you as you say goodbye.

The couture label, Alex London Design is available on the designer’s website along with ALD, the new ready-to-wear label by Alex London.

Photo credits: photographer: Kid Hoover, Model: Sumie, hair: Numi Empire, Make up artist: Lyse, and Styling: Alex London.